August 2024

This month I started my first big bikepacking project, the Vermont VTXL. 

The VTXL is a 302 mile long trail and Bikepacking.com describes the VTXL as “One virtually continuous dirt path through Vermont from the Canada border to the Massachusetts border, linking the state’s northeast and southwest corners and capturing its geography, landscape, and town life”. I’ve always thought Vermont is a beautiful state with it’s rolling green hills, farms and wild spaces like the Green Mountain National Forest.

Bikepacking the VTXL is something I’ve been thinking about for some time now. I’ve backpacked before, I’ve ridden my bike long distances before, but I’ve never bikepacked. I love exploring new places by bike and I love the outdoors, especially wild, natural places. The VTXL sounds appealing since it is traveling on roads but instead of on pavement, it’s mostly on gravel which means not many cars to contend with and it traverses through beautiful countryside off the beaten path.

Just as folks either thru-hike or section hike the Appalachian Trail, I’ve decided to section ride the VTXL.  This will be a 2-3 year project if all goes well.  I’ve started with a couple of out and back trips starting at the Vermont / Mass border. I’d like to eventually transition to a multi-night trip to cover more ground, not have to double back and share this adventure with Bea. It would be fantastic to meet up with Bea at the end of the day’s ride and explore towns, general stores, inns and restaurants together. There will still be times, though, when I will be camping due to the location and terrain.

I want to journal my experiences and doing it in electronic form seemed to be the way to go since I can incorporate maps and links to other sites. I’ve created an interactive map that tracks my progress and the location of the pictures I’ve taken.

Mass Border to the Green Mountain National Forest

And so the adventure begins! The first part of this section traveled through communities while being a mix of gravel and paved roads. I enjoyed the farm lands, and an occasional shop or two. The second part of this section ascends on gravel roads to mountains in the Green Mountain National Forest surrounded by nothing but wilderness. The forest was dense. I saw wildlife without even trying. Turkeys, hawks, hummingbird birds, frogs, etc. I enjoyed both sections, with the wilderness being the most challenging as well as my favorite of the two.

The beginning of the journey at the Vermont / Mass border

Click here to view in full screen mode. Clicking on a blue pin will show the picture I took at that spot. The green part of the route on the map signifies areas I have finished while the blue section signifies what is left to do. I’m just getting started and so there is a lot more blue than green!

  • Henry Covered Bridge, North Bennington
I enjoyed my stop at the Prospect coffee shop in North Bennington.
Nice atmosphere inside. Couch was comfy. I noticed some folks working on their laptops while enjoying a hot cup of coffee. I wondered what they were working on. Could it be jotting down travel notes?
  • The VTXL is 90% unpaved, gravel roads. Beautiful scenery.

I rented a spot on a farm in Shaftsbury and had 8 acres to myself with beautiful views of the mountains. The sky was clear that night and there was an abundance of stars.

While in my tent, I heard a pack of coyotes howling in the evening. They sounded close by. It was pretty cool hearing each distinctive voice joining in at different times and howling as a collective. No food in my tent, unless I’m considered food, and so nothing to worry about.

The farm owner likes to collect and fix up Volkswagon Camper Vans
Pack configuration: Tent, Stove, food, sleeping bag, sleeping pad, Bear Vault, clothing, map, compass, water filtration system, a Stephen King Novel I purchased at a local bookstore because I forgot my Kindle, satellite communicator, powerbank, bike lock, first aid kit, bike navigation computer and an extra battery for the bike which significantly added to the bulk and weight.
Loved passing by farm land

The Federated Church of East Arlington. Established 1843

The Chocolatorium, East Arlington

Had to buy Bea some nice surprises here. Her favorite was chocolate and peanut butter.

Leaving town and heading into the Green Mountain National Forest. The ascent to my next campsite, Grout Pond, was 2000+ feet. It was a consistent climb for about 8 long miles.  I found it to be challenging, but not unwelcome. 
Made it to Grout Pond!
Campsite at Ground Pond. Not much space at all, but I suspected this might be the case. It was the only site left unreserved. The advantage of having a single person tent is that it fits just about anywhere. Little did I know, the vegetation right next to my tent was prime hummingbird habitat. It was interesting watching them dart around and challenge each other for territory and dominance. The dance for life. In the evening I could hear the rapid flap of their wings while relaxing in my tent.
Freeze dried meals have come along way. This was actually really good.
BearVault Canister. This was my first time using a canister instead of stowing a bag of my food between two trees in the air. The Canister was much easier. Just stow it far away from your tent and you are good to go to sleep. It also served as a good food storage container mounted on my bike.

Grout Pond. It was a great weather day and everybody was in a good mood. Folks from Canada, Vermont and other states. It’s fun meeting and chatting with other people who have the same interests.

And so after a night at Grout Pond, I doubled back thus riding twice the amount of miles but only getting credit for one way on my map. This was a great first start to biking the VTXL. It gave me a chance to get my feet wet and gauge my fitness, the bike’s performance and the gear I packed.

I found the folks I spoke to were friendly. Twice, when on a gravel road in remote areas a local stopped their car to ask if I was alright and needed a hand. I was just making adjustments to my bike and so I replied that I was and thanked them. I think folks who live in remote areas tend to look after each other. I appreciated their kindness.

Next year I’m planning on taking some vacation days and stringing several nights together, cover more ground and hopefully not have to double back. I’m excited about continuing the trail!